i'm not sure if surfing looks easy or difficult to you. but its not as easy as it looks. my appropriately long-haired, leathery, and latin surf instructor, sergio, tried his best english to help me figure out the timing of the up and balance, but i struggled with both-- standing up and balancing. "stop thinking, relax!" he'd say. (is that a surfing lesson or a life philosophy?) i managed to get up and catch an uda (wave) a few times.
afterwards, my sister and i took a little 'arrested development' relaxation.
3 comments:
are you two wearing cut-offs under those blankets? I sure hope so...
Is that you on that surfboard? So impressive! I would've found a picture online and just faked it. You're my hero!
I will attest to the fact that Carolyn was, indeed, that surfer. Waves are powerful and always ultimately prevail, but Carolyn mastered many of them. She might still have been wearing the wet suit under those blankets, though, had the guy at the rental counter been more compassionate.
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